Broadfork™

How to

Net crops against bugs and birds

The squash went in this morning. Put the bug netting over it today, before the first cucumber beetle finds it.

Grown in Ohio, zone 6a. Your frost dates move the calendar; the signals don't. Broadfork goes by where your garden is, not its zone: frost dates for your ZIP code in the US, or the ones you type in anywhere else.

Seven minutes to read. The steps stand on their own.

planting daybug netting on
first flowersoff the squash family
0.35 mmthe finest mesh

Before you start#

Bug netting is a mesh, and the size of its holes decides which pests stay out. Over the squash family it keeps off cucumber beetles, squash bugs and the squash vine borer. Over the cabbage family it keeps off cabbage worms, cabbage maggots and flea beetles.

It isn't a cover for the cold. No data gives netting any warmth on a cold night, or says how hot it runs under it in summer. For a cold night, use a row cover; its lightest grade keeps insects off too.

For a crop that will grow tall, plan a frame to hold the netting up, such as the hoops of a low tunnel.

When it goes on#

Put it on the day you sow or plant, before the pests show. The weeks that matter most are early spring and again late July into early August.

Cucumber beetles
They mate and lay from mid-May. Net cucumbers, squash and melons at planting.
Cabbage maggots
The flies lay in early to mid-May. Have the netting up by then.
Cabbage worms
The white butterflies are out from mid-May, with 3 to 5 generations a summer; some data says usually three.
Flea beetles
Early spring. Net the seedlings while they grow.
Squash bugs
The adults fly in during late May and early June.
Squash vine borer
The moths fly in June, about when the plants begin to run. Some data nets at planting, some once the vines start to run, or late June to early July for bush types. Either way it comes off when they flower.
Japanese beetles
Late June to early July. On beans, raspberries and grapes, fine netting goes on only after they bloom.
Spotted wing drosophila
On raspberries, blackberries and blueberries, 80 gram netting goes on after most of the flowers are pollinated and before the fruit colors, and comes off after fruiting.

In Broadfork When a cucumber, squash, melon, cabbage, broccoli or kale planting goes in, bug netting goes on your list for that day, and a squash you log Starting to vine without netting gets the task too.

Which mesh#

Go by the hole, in millimeters. Pick the grade the pest you're netting for can't get through.

0.35 mm
Aphids, flea beetles, thrips, whiteflies, spider mites and leafhoppers, and everything the coarser meshes stop. It keeps out the ladybugs and lacewings too.
0.72 by 0.97 mm
Cucumber beetles. In a trial it kept them out, let the air through and gave the best cucumber and melon yields. Some data uses a 0.8 by 1.0 mm screen.
0.85 mm
Leafhoppers, moths, root maggot flies, stink bugs and squash bugs. Flea beetles and aphids need the finer mesh.
1.0 by 0.6 mm
Spotted wing drosophila, in the grade called 80 gram. A 60 gram net, at 1.95 by 0.95 mm, let it through.
5 by 3 mm
Only moths, stink bugs and squash bugs.
the holes, drawn to one scale0.35 mmaphids, flea beetles,thrips, whiteflies0.72 by 0.97 mmcucumber beetles0.85 mmleafhoppers, moths,root maggot flies1.0 by 0.6 mmspotted wingdrosophila5 by 3 mmonly moths, stink bugsand squash bugs
The holes, side by side. Each mesh is drawn to the same scale, with the pests it keeps out. Pick the one whose holes the pest you're netting for can't get through.

The steps#

  1. Pick the bed. For squash, not where the squash family grew last year: the vine borer moths come up out of that soil, under the net. For the cabbage family, not where onions or root crops grew.
  2. Net the day you sow or plant. Don't wait for the first pest.
  3. Give tall crops a frame. Once tomatoes need caging, or pole beans and vining cucumbers climb, put the netting on a frame or take it off.
  4. Seal every edge with soil. It only keeps insects out when it's sealed all the way around.
  5. Take it off the squash family when the flowers open. Bees can't reach the flowers under it, and no fruit sets. Or lift it in the morning while the bees fly, and put it back for the afternoon and night.
  6. Leave it on the cabbage family until harvest. Only a plant kept for seed flowers and needs it off.

Watch under it#

Look under the netting now and then. Anything already on the plants or in the soil when it went on is trapped in there with them. For a pest the netting doesn't stop, or once the crop outgrows it, handle the pests as you would in the open.

Fruit that needs bees gets none under it. Squash kept netted through flowering is pollinated by hand, about once a day; a female flower needs six or seven pollinations for a full fruit. Under netting over berries, bring pollinators in.

In Broadfork Log a pest that netting is timed for, such as cucumber beetles or flea beetles, and each bare planting of the crops netted against it gets the task; the other crops it feeds on are named to check.

Bird netting#

Hang it over a frame, off the plants, and anchor or bury the edges all the way around, or the birds walk under. Over strawberries, stakes of 6 to 8 inches every 2 feet, angled outward, hold it.

Time it by the fruit, not the date. The data puts it on before or as the fruit begins to color. Birds start on grapes as they sweeten, and leave aronia alone until it's fully ripe.

Lift it to pick, and put it back at once. Pick the fruit as soon as it's ripe.

Well-managed 80 gram insect netting also kept birds off completely, and sheltered the crop from hail, heavy rain and wind.

The data gives no mesh size for bird netting.

From the beds in OhioOnce the berries start to form, put a tunnel of bird netting over the strawberries. The red draws the birds in.

In Broadfork Bird netting over a fruit the data nets for birds goes on your list by its expected season, or the day you log its fruit starting to color, and the app asks you to take it off when the season ends or you log it done producing.

If it goes wrong#

Pests under the net
They were on the plants or in the soil when it went on. Net at planting next time, and seal the edges.
Aphids building up
The finer meshes shut out the ladybugs and lacewings, and had aphid outbreaks in a trial. Treat them as you would in the open.
Flowers but no squash
The bees couldn't get in. Take it off at bloom, or pollinate by hand.
A bird caught inside
It came in at a gap. Pin the edges to the ground all the way around.
The crop lifting the net
It outgrew the cover. Move it onto a frame, or take it off.

At the end of the season#

Take bug netting down after the crop, to slow the sun's wear on it. It lasts 7 to 10 years.

Take bird netting off and put it away as soon as the harvest is done.

The exceptions, by crop#

Every number on this page comes from a published extension source.

Sources for this guide: University of Minnesota Extension, Ohio State University Extension, University of Maryland Extension, Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, Utah State University Extension, Clemson Cooperative Extension, UMass Extension, University of Georgia Extension, University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension, NC State Extension, Penn State Extension, University of Florida, University of New Hampshire Extension, USDA, Colorado State University Extension, Cornell Cooperative Extension, New Mexico State, University of Illinois Extension, University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension, University of Missouri Extension, University of Vermont Extension.

The documents behind this guide (65)

Updated 11/11/2026 · Checked against our sources 11/12/2026

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